2009年3月11日 星期三

圍城 Dubrovnik, Croatia


對 Croatia(克羅埃西亞) 沒有太多的認知 只有從一本雜誌上 约略有些印象。濱海城市Dubrovnik有亞得里亞海之珠的美稱, 從威尼斯海陸空都可抵達.

Dubrovnik有長達七百年是獨立的Republic of Dubrovnik 善于經商和土耳其印度有密切海上貿易往來,與英國皇室也保持活絡外交關係。直到1806年才被拿破崙廢止。富裕繁盛的程度曾經讓鄰近的威尼斯都十分眼紅。難得的是這個老城從13世紀迄今都一直保持著當年的原貌 ,而且第一間藥房自1317年開業起一直營業至今。


從威尼斯乘船來到這個著名的walled city 整個城市當年為了防禦外敵 滴水不漏的環城建築了一道堅固的城牆 居高臨下 有護城河只有兩個城門進出 還有一面是建在面海的懸崖上。遊客可以付費繞行城牆一圈 大概只有1.5英哩 俯瞰整個城市 邊走邊窺看每家院內的動靜和遊蕩曬太陽的貓。 也許觀光的收益太誘惑 對于注重隱私的人來說 成天有人在牆頭走動似乎太多干擾。

諷刺的是這樣堅實的防禦工事 保護了他們數百年 卻完全抵擋不了現代化的武器。 南斯拉夫瓦解後 底下六個小國打成一團 Serbia為擴大領土 攻打Croatia和Bosnia 1991-1992更是大舉炮轟血洗 Croatia的 Dubrovnik。 在我這局外人看來實在不明白 本是同根生相煎何太急? 戰事平息後藉由國內和國際間的援助將斷壁殘垣老城恢復原貌。但是 一所教堂內還殘留著當年的彈痕。可以想像驚慌竄躲的人們 抱著最後一絲希望躲進教堂祈求神的庀護 ,但是終究躲不過這場腥風血雨。

(城牆上的小人是我 :)
在一個僻靜的露天餐廳用餐 好奇的詢問一個20來歲的服務小姐 當年這裡發生的事,沒想到她臉一沉 說她無法談論此事 因為也痛失家人 喪親之痛仍未平復 說著說著掩面哭泣 奔入廚房。我十分懊惱無端惹起她的傷心往事。

其實Dubrovnik很像義大利的許多城鎮 大理石的建築 石板路 噴泉 露天咖啡座 時裝精品店 畫廊 女子多高挑纖瘦 (基因使然)。這裡的人努力忘記過去 ,但是也許歷史的傷痕猶新,在雲淡風清 一片璨陽背後總有些揮之不去的陰霾 。

6 則留言:

Miss LK 提到...

The fortress is beautiful, reminding me of a long lost fairy tale but a sad one.

I cannot imagine having to live through a war and to carry on with such memory. Peace on earth, please.

ps. faster typing English(plus my work laptop does not have Chinese software...)

Echomiao 提到...

It is beautiful, almost surreal.

The fortress in San Francisco only had been used for perhaps 50 years before it's obsoleted. Sadly, the world has changed drastically with the invention of modern weapons.

What a beautiful day! a good day for having a pastry at Ferry Building

Miss LK 提到...

Is your office near the Ferry Building? Lucky!

Do you happen to know other cat lovers who might want a Siamese/Himalayan mix? Since you already have two kitties, not sure if you want a 3rd... I have been fostering a beautiful Himalayan from an animal rescue in memory of my Sapphire. A nice lady wanted to adopt her but changed her mind due to an unexpected crisis in the family... So I am campaigning for my foster cat again. You can see her info here:

http://misslkrhapsody.blogspot.com/2009/01/my-little-guest.html

I cannot commit to another permanent pet for the next few years due to other private matters. Sorry about the long message.

Echomiao 提到...

I've seen the picture, she is adorable.

When I was cat sitting for my sister, Minimi almost committed suicide, she stopped eating and drinking for 3 days, too upset to come out from my closet until the other cat was gone, so I gave up on the idea of having the 3rd one. But I do know some cat lovers. I'll ask around.

Miss LK 提到...

A romanticist and an idealist Minimi is - she only asks the same absolute devotion in return!!! We shall not upset her majesty. I was reigned by Queen Sapphire for many years myself and completely understand the intense bonding.

Thank you for asking around for my little foster! Every successful adoption is a small victory in animal rescue.

V 提到...

正想今年找個時間一遊此地!